Loading...
Menu

Yard Sale Buyer's Guide: Buy and Sell for Profit

p<>{color:#000;}.

Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide

Guy Fisherman

Published by

Shell-Hunter Publishing Company

Shellhunterpubco.com

Disclaimer

 

This book’s intent is for informational purposes only.

 

Any information obtained within this book is the opinion of the author based on personal experience. As such, the author and/or publisher do not assume responsibility or liability for any opinions expressed.

 

Any third-party contributors do not compensate the author and/or publisher.

 

The use of information found within this book does not guarantee success or future earnings related to you or your business.

 

Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that any information included in this book was correct and authentic at time of press, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

 

Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide

 

A Shell-Hunter Publishing Company book/published by arrangement with the author.

 

ShellHunterPubCo.com

 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

 

No part of this book may be reproduced, scanned, or distributed in any form without permission of author and/or publisher.

 

Shell-Hunter Publishing Company is a registered LLC

Introduction

 

The essence of this book is designed to help individuals looking to create financial opportunities from yard sales. It is for anyone wanting to learn tips and strategies when buying items at yard sales with intentions of selling them for a profit. I believe most tips and strategies I discuss will benefit all buyers, with a few of the beginning tips targeting buyers who are beginning to take their buying and selling skill to new heights.

 

The tips and strategies I discuss will help maximize expected profits. Finding and buying items to sell is the focus of this book.

 

This book contains some general tips and strategies. It also includes advanced strategies I didn’t learn until I spent years buying.

 

Information learned in this guide was obtained through years of experience.

 

I want you to think about two things.

 

First, ask yourself, what do I want to take away from reading this book?

 

If your answer is “nothing”, then this book isn’t for you.

 

Maybe you have been going to yard sales for a few years and have learned your own tips and strategies. Maybe you have already acquired all the knowledge you need. Maybe you’ve been through years of trial and error, just like me.

 

No book will answer everything, but I do believe beginners will find this guide beneficial and useful.

 

Next I want you to ask yourself “How many months/years would it have taken me to learn this information if I had gone out and tried to learn on my own?”

Chances are it would take years to attain knowledge I am sharing. Information can be invaluable if we know how to use it.

I have been buying from yard sales for over twenty years. I have both positive and negative experiences attributed to yard sales. My tips and strategies are directly from my personal experiences.

 

As with most self-propelled entrepreneurial ventures, buying items to sell for profit is not a get rich quick scheme. For most buyers, it provides additional income each month. Most buyers continue a full-time regular job that provides benefits and a guaranteed salary.

 

I have spent many hours scouring table after table. Using knowledge I gained from those hours I am creating a beginner’s guide for you to use.

 

My main goal was to develop something that was useful, succinct, and applicable. If you are reading this guide you obviously have a passion and desire to begin buying and selling items.

 

This book is designed to lead you through a journey.

 

I have followed a chronological order of events based on my yard sale routine. The intention of this book is to have you focus on maximizing “Opportunities.” You will learn how to create, expose, and learn from opportunities.

 

Tips and strategies vary in length from a few sentences to several paragraphs in order to fully explain my concept. Each tip and strategy has been designated their own chapter. If a particular chapter is meaningful to you, bookmark it and easily find what you were looking for later.

 

The beginning section chapters explore the “Where and How” of yard sales.

 

The middle section chapters are “In-Action” tips and strategies. These tips and strategies put you in the middle of a yard sale.

Tips and strategies listed in the end section chapters detail specific items I have bought. I have provided tips for acquiring them with success.

 

As a bonus, I have included a chapter on a few items I bought and sold over the past three months. While the list is far from complete, it highlights several items I bought. I am including their purchase and sold price.

 

Whether you have never attended a yard sale or are in your first few months of searching for items to buy, I hope you successfully implement my tips and strategies to aid in your journey.

A Little Bit about Me

 

If you haven’t figured it out by now, I love yard sales. I grew up going “yard-saling” (a word known only to true “yard-salers” from good ol’ PA) with my parents.

 

Now, with my own family, I take my son with me. I try to teach him everything I know. He is only nine. I know he has gained eternal knowledge that will benefit him.

 

Before my son was born, I used to try to get my wife into the sport of yard-saling. Eventually, I gave up on trying convincing her of the benefits. I started educating my son. Since my wife didn’t grow up in a family that ever bought anything from yard sales, it was a losing battle.

 

For me, even if I weren’t buying items to sell, I would still have the itch to go out and find deals. The feeling you get when you find something at a bargain price will always be in me. There is no better feeling than going out for an hour and finding treasures.

 

There have been days I have gone out in search of treasures and struck out all morning. Then, just when I’m about to head home, I stop at one more yard sale. Boom! I find something I know I can buy and sell. My mood elevates. Once again, I have the feeling of being on top of the world and confident in my skills.

 

It is impossible for me to teach you everything I know about finding deals. It has taken me twenty years to acquire that information.

 

In order to give you an advantage I have written my most used and successful tips and strategies I consistently use when going to yard sales.

 

My tips and strategies are not written in stone, and definitely do not have to be followed to be successful. They are given as a guide to improve your yard sale buying skills. As with most things in life, these techniques can be situational and based on what is happening around you. After each tip and strategy I give my best attempt at explaining when and how I use them.

 

Good Luck,

 

Guy

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER ONE

Get if Free

Get it Free Now

 

Dear Future Yard Sale Guru,

 

As a special bonus for readers, I have created a Free Cheat Sheet to accompany Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide.

 

This Cheat Sheet is FREE.

 

You will get the Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide Cheat Sheet PDF. This PDF is printable and will compliment this book.

 

To get the most out of this book, and for future success, take a few seconds to download the Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide Cheat Sheet now, before you start reading:

 

Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide Cheat Sheet

 

Don’t fall behind, beat your competition, get an edge, download you free Cheat Sheet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER TWO

Where Should I Go

Where Should I Go

 

Many tools aid when searching for yard sales.

 

In the old days (ten or more years ago), I had to wait for my local newspaper to arrive on a Thursday morning. After fetching the paper from the porch I would go straight to the classifieds. At this point, I could do my research and make a list of yard sales to attend.

 

Luckily, technology has advanced. I no longer have to wait until Thursday to find out when and where my local sales will be occurring.

 

Tools readily available to use are on-line sites, phone apps, signs, and through word of mouth.

 

The main tool I use is Craigslist. I use this for my main search.

If I find enough yard sales to keep me busy I don’t search anywhere else.

 

To search on Craigslist you have to make sure the app is set-up to search in your area.

 

After you choose your demographic area, you want to find and choose Garage Sale. This shows all yard sales listed in your area. Most listings have dates, times, and location listed. Take a look and note any yard sales you want to attend.

 

If you have trouble finding yard sales on Craigslist you can use a different tool.

 

Another tool I use is my local newspaper’s website. I find their main website and click on Classifieds.

 

This allows you access to anyone who has listed their yard sale in the newspaper. Search your area and note any yard sales you want to attend.

 

These two tools have given me plenty of opportunities over the past five years. There are other websites and apps sellers use to list yard sales.

 

I have used a few other tools. There are some useful yard/garage sale apps available for smart phones. Most apps are free or only cost a few dollars.

 

Type “Yard Sale” on your phone app search. You will have access to the apps dedicated to finding yard sales. Choose one that has the highest rating. If you don’t use it regularly you can keep it on your phone as a backup plan.

 

If you go to your original sales and still have time to buy, you could open the app and search if any sales are close. You may have missed yard sales in your original search. Sellers also decide to have yard sales at the last minute and advertise late.

 

There are also occasions I spot a sign hanging by a house or development. Some sellers post yard sale signs in advance to attract more buyers. If I see a sign with an upcoming sale I make a note. This way I am able to include it on my route.

 

My friends and family know I like to yard sale. They notify me about yard sales they know are coming up. Through word of mouth, I gain new opportunities.

 

The more friends and family that know you like to go to yard sales, the more opportunities you will provide yourself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER THREE

Route Best Traveled

Route Best Traveled

 

After you searched and listed yard sales you want to attend you need to plan your route. Start with the yard sale closest to your home. Make a plan that navigates you from start to finish.

 

Planning a route saves you time. It gives you the best opportunity to find profitable items. In addition, gas isn’t free. Running around town without a plan wastes your hard-earned profits right out of your gas tank.

 

When in doubt, start where there are a few sales listed close together. You have more opportunities in a shorter amount of time.

 

When I list my route, I don’t print off directions for every sale. I hand write my notes. Since I buy from local yard sales, I know where the majority of sales are located. If I am unsure of a street location, I look for it on-line. Once I locate the street, I make a few notes so I can easily find it when I’m driving around.

 

Planned Route example:

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. Harley St. (7 am/tools)

*
p<>{color:#000;}. Becker Road (7 am/ Behind gas station)

*
p<>{color:#000;}. Fisher Lane (8 am/ toys, video games)

*
p<>{color:#000;}. Piper Circle (8 am/multi-family/toys, tools)

 

It is helpful to have a GPS or smart-phone with gps. There are times I thought I knew where a sale was located and can’t find it. If I struggle, I know I can turn on my gps app and type in the yard sale address.

 

Usually, within no time, I am back on track. This saves precious time driving around looking for a sale you can’t find.

 

Your goal is to optimize potential opportunities early. Other buyers in your area will be out trying to find the same deals. Creating a map allows you to navigate with ease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER FOUR

Time to Start

Time to Start

 

Yard sales start at different times. Consider this when routing your road map. Most yard sales start between seven and 8 AM. Occasionally, there are a few that start earlier or later.

In order to give myself improved opportunities I arrive early. I am not talking about showing up at someone’s house at 5 AM if their yard sale doesn’t start until 8 AM. That would be a waste of time.

 

Someone who advertises for an 8 AM start won’t usually begin setting up until thirty minutes to an hour before their listed start time. On average, I start driving to my first destination around thirty minutes before it is scheduled to start.

 

If you run into a situation where a seller hasn’t started setting up, I would skip and go to another sale that is close. You can go back and see if the sale you skipped earlier has started setting up. If they haven’t, I would temporarily cross them off the list and go to the other sales you planned.

 

If you return to the skipped yard sale and the seller has just started setting up tables, assess the situation. You want to decide whether it is worth my time to get out and look or keep driving.

 

If there is time at the end of your planned route, you can head back to the skipped sale and check out what they have. It is better to miss a sale then sit around and waste time waiting for a seller who hasn’t begun setting up. There are too many other opportunities out there to miss.

 

Another consideration for being early is during a development yard sale. Whenever there is a development yard sale I am in the development an hour before their scheduled start time.

 

This gives me the opportunity to drive around and get a feel of the development. It also allows me to be first at sales setting up early. I am then able to stagger along as new sellers open their garages.

 

It is a good feeling to drive past a house that was set up thirty minutes earlier and see your competition parking. You can feel at ease knowing they are looking at what you had a chance to scan.

 

If you arrive at a sale early and someone yells, “We’re not ready”, don’t worry. Just respond something nice back.

 

I like to respond with an apology and reason why I’m early.

“Sorry, I’m on my way to work and saw you had a yard sale.”

Innocent and to the point.

 

Most sellers are OK with you looking around. A few sellers still want you to get lost.

 

No matter what, don’t get upset, just head to your next destination and tell yourself they didn’t have anything you wanted anyway.

 

I don’t have a set time I stop going to yard sales. I decide based on what’s available.

 

There have been days I only go out for an hour and there are days I actively buy for over six hours. It depends on the opportunities available.

 

If there isn’t much going on in my area I either decide to stop for the day or see if there are other opportunities in my area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER FIVE

Bigger Possibilities

Bigger Possibilities

 

Development yard sales provide the best opportunity to find items.

 

When given the opportunity to go to a development yard sale or single yard sales, I always choose development sales. I make note of any single sales in case I have time after the development sale.

 

In the development you have anywhere from five to thirty homes on average that have items for sale. This provides greater opportunity for you to find items.

 

When you go to development yard sales, you must adhere to my advice outlined in the time chapter. In order to find items you are looking for you need to arrive an hour before the start time of the development. After arriving early a few times, you will start to notice the same buyers in your area. This is your competition.

 

Your competition will be driving around with you from house to house. Your goal is to notice them and beat them to the great items.

 

Another thing you eventually notice happens about an hour into the scheduled start time of a development yard sale. You suddenly feel pressured. There is so much traffic it seems like everyone is out trying to buy what you are looking for.

 

When I feel pressured in a development, I leave and go to the single sales I marked. After I go to the single sales, I may come back to the development and look for new sellers.

 

Now, I can take my time looking for hidden treasures that were missed by other buyers who ran in and out looking for specific items. I am open to buying different items. This is what gives me an advantage over my competition.

 

On weekends, when there are not many sales in my area, I look to see if there are any bigger opportunities in nearby communities. If there are a few development sales that are out of my area, I have the opportunity to go and explore some new territory.

 

I only drive out of my area when opportunities are greater elsewhere.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER SIX

Far Away

Far Away

 

A few years ago, I decided to stop driving further than fifteen-twenty minutes from my house. I used to drive up to an hour for sales that had certain key words listed.

 

The main item I used to buy was video games. I would go anywhere that had video games listed in their advertisement.

 

Since then, I expanded my buying knowledge. I no longer need to drive an hour to buy a few video games.

 

Now, I can drive five minutes and find items with higher expected profits.

 

In order to not drive further away I needed to educate myself. I needed to know what items generate profit.

 

I didn’t gain that knowledge overnight. That took years of experience.

 

While this book gives you opportunities to learn, it isn’t a complete guide on buying everything.

 

There are books dedicated to anything you can buy or collect. They are each hundreds of pages long.

 

An exception to the rule, driving further away, depends on what’s available in your area. If you only have one or two yard sales occurring in your area then exploring further away will give you more opportunities. Focus on finding development yard sales that provide you with the most opportunities.

 

Only you can decide where you have opportunities.

 

If you are struggling finding items, you can drive a little further to see if opportunities are better elsewhere.

 

It is also a possibility you need to expand your buying knowledge. Keep reading and learning.

 

I continue to learn every day. It is a lifelong choice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER SEVEN

Poaching the Night Before

Poaching the Night Before

 

Some buyers go to yard sales the night before. They are able to find items and do not have to go back to that house the next morning.

 

If you have the personality to knock on someone’s door and ask to look at their items for sale, then go for it.

 

I have tried this strategy a few times. I didn’t like it. It doesn’t fit my personality.

 

I feel comfortable waiting until morning and using my early-bird tactic. I may lose a few items to other buyers, but I don’t feel good about going the night before with intentions to get the “good stuff”.

 

The last time I tried this tactic I showed up at someone’s house who advertised video game items. They listed prices for everything. I worked the next day. It was in the opposite direction of where I worked. I knew there was no way I could make it to the house the next day.

 

I decided to try my luck and drive by. Someone was out front. I stopped and started asking questions.

 

It was a man that was living at the house. He said the seller wasn’t home. He decided to let me look at the items. I picked out a large pile and waited.

 

He said the seller would be home soon. After about ten minutes, the seller ripped into the driveway and jumped out. It was evident he was furious. Immediately he began questioning why I thought I had the right to show up.

 

I was caught off guard. Nothing up until this point led me to believe the seller would be upset. I apologized as much as I could and told him I had to work the next day.

 

He was still upset. He said it was OK, but made sure to let me know he wasn’t happy. He also was very clear everything would be full price, even though I was buying almost everything he had. I got out of there as fast as I could.

 

Lesson learned – I know showing up the night before isn’t for me.

 

At the most I email the seller. If they have a contact email on their advertisement I respond using that format. I ask some specifics about items they listed.

Most sellers don’t respond. If a seller does respond, you get an idea of what kind of seller they will be.

 

If you come across an ad that seems “to good to be true”, it might be. I had two sellers respond about video games. From their responses, I realized they were individuals like me. They were selling for profit.

 

Buyers, like you, also hold yard sales. They have learned how to word advertisements to attract buyers.

 

You might find a valuable item or two that they missed, but probably not the items they listed in their ad. Their items end up costing more than you can sell them. So instead, look for untapped opportunities at these sales.

 

For example, at such a sale I found a nice 14kt gold bracelet. It wasn’t heavy, but only cost a quarter. It was mixed in with fake jewelry.

I went to that sale for video games. Instead, I left with a gold bracelet I was able to sell for $70.

 

While I didn’t buy video games from this seller, I was able to create an opportunity by finding an item they weren’t as experienced about.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER EIGHT

Manners

Manners

 

I know manners are a weird concept when discussing tips and strategies for buying items at yard sales.

 

I believe the saying “You can catch more flies with honey than with vinegar” works just the same at yard sales.

 

Remember, nobody wants to deal with a rude individual, especially sellers.

 

There is no reason to go to a yard sale with an attitude.

 

You will come across buyers and sellers who are “rude”. That doesn’t mean you have to return the favor.

 

I employ the smile and nod strategy. It serves better than gruffly stomping around and responding like you are owed something.

 

I have seen rude behavior from local buyers towards people having sales. To me, it doesn’t make sense to potentially offend the seller. You want to buy things from them, not make them angry.

 

Do yourself a favor, smile and nod.

 

A strategy some buyers over-employ is putting items down. Sellers usually see right through this tactic. Telling a seller that his item is: scratched, beat up, mangled, worthless, and nothing but a piece of junk sets off an alarm in seller’s minds.

 

Why would you be interested in buying something so worthless? It doesn’t add up. If you’re going to use this tactic you have to do so with grace.

 

If I am interested in an item and I want a better price I slowly work any defects into conversation.

 

My tactic might be used something like this:

 

Me: (After looking at the item for a little and taking note to any defects) How much are you asking?

 

Seller: $10. It’s rare, one-of-a-kind (All sellers think their items are rare, one-of-a-kind)

 

Me: (Look at the item. Count to five, and then… ) Oh, I didn’t see this (point to a defect and pause a few more seconds)

 

Seller: Oh yeah, me neither, if you’re interested I’ll take $6.

 

It doesn’t always happen this way, however, my tactic doesn’t get the seller defensive. When a seller is defensive they are less likely to give any discount.

 

If they don’t offer a discount you have another option. Ask the seller if they would take a lesser amount. No matter if they say yes or no, you don’t know if you don’t ask.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER NINE

Speed

Speed

 

Speed is one of my main contributors of success. Get there early and keep moving.

 

If you spend ten minutes at each yard sale, picking every item up you will be losing opportunities. Your competition (the other buyers) will be happy to walk past you and pick up gold sitting a few feet ahead.

 

You missed the opportunity because you stalled to look at less valuable items.

 

When I say “speed”, I don’t mean get in your car and race to each sale. What I mean is that every action outside of your car needs to have a purpose.

 

Those actions need to be precise and completed in seconds. If you are walking around without a plan, you miss many opportunities your competition will exploit.

 

You want to find your “sweet spots” before anyone else has an opportunity. Sweet spots are areas you target to find items you buy. The more you buy the quicker you become at finding your sweet spot.

 

Here is a sample, in seconds, of my speed at a sale:

 

I’m pulling up to the yard sale. I’m already doing a visual scan before I reach for my seatbelt. I put the car in park and jump out to start heading up the driveway. (5 seconds)

 

Walking through the sale, I’m continuing to scan everything while heading to my sweet spots. (5 seconds)

 

I look at my first stop. The jewelry table. I want to make decisions fast. (1 second – 2 minutes if I am buying something)

 

After I assess my sweet spots I continue walking and scanning the entire sale. I only pause a few seconds if something catches my eye. I am making split-second decisions to buy or pass on items. (5 seconds – 2 minutes)

 

I pay as quickly as I can. If I didn’t buy anything I return to my car. (5 seconds – 1 minute)

 

Walking back to the car, I do one final scan making sure I didn’t miss anything. (3 seconds)

 

Finally, I jump in my car and head to the next sale.

 

Each sale takes a different amount of time depending what is available. In the early hours of buying I make sure, I am faster making decisions.

 

If I go to a sale and don’t find anything, I am hoping to be back in my car heading to the next sale within a minute. If I do find items to buy, I am still hoping to leave within five minutes.

 

If you waste ten minutes at each yard sale you find yourself short on opportunities.

 

Save yourself precious minutes. Take a variety of money denominations. Not all sellers are prepared with change. I have gone to sales when the seller has had to head back in their house to look for change.

 

If you go to the ATM and get a fistful of twenties you will be waiting for sellers to make change every time you buy something.

 

I take a mix of everything. On average, I take $100 to buy items. I take 3 twenties, 2 tens, 2 fives, and 10 ones. I look around my house and grab a few quarters for my pocket as well.

Being prepared with a variety of money gives me a better opportunity to get in and out of each sale as quickly as possible.

Keep moving and improve at scanning each time you go out to buy items.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER TEN

More on the Quick Scan

More on the Quick Scan

When I go to yard sales, I am in a zone. I am focused and alert.

The first thing I do when walking up a driveway is a quick scan. I get an idea of the whole yard sale before I am at the first table.

When I scan, I want to have a good understanding of several things.

 

I am including what I want to learn when I scan. I am also describing mental notes I make when I scan:

 

First, I want to know how their sale is set-up. This helps me know if there are tables I can skip. I am also noting tables I want to look at.

 

“Is it in a garage? All over their yard? Where and who do I pay? Are there tables I can avoid (clothes)? Do items look like they have been looked through by other buyers?”

 

Second, I want to know what kind of items they are selling. I want to know if what they have is worth the precious minutes of buying time I have to invest at their sale. If the whole sale is baby clothes, I do a five second walk around and head to the next sale.

 

“Where are the video games? Do they have jewelry? Is there a table that looks like it has opportunities?”

 

Third, I see if any other buyers are there. If buyers are already looking then I know I need to hit my first sweet spot as quick as possible.

 

“Anyone else walking around buying? Am I the first? Seriously, where is the jewelry table?”

 

Fourth, as I am walking through the sale I am scanning each table. I want to head to my first spot (next chapter) before I start looking at other items. When I’m scanning tables I am taking mental notes of tables I want to go back to and look at more in depth.

 

“I have to remember to head back and look at that crate. I want to check out that table of video games right after I scan this jewelry.”

 

My first scan, about 15 seconds, gives me a lot of information in a short amount of time. You won’t see everything, but it will help you succeed at each sale.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER ELEVEN

First Stop: Jewelry Table

First Stop: Jewelry Table

 

The first place I always check is the jewelry table.

 

The number one spot you find the jewelry table is right by the seller. It is usually on the table closest to where the seller is set-up collecting cash.

 

Sellers put things they value close to them. Even sellers who put jewelry out for low prices place it close to them. Jewelry has a value, they just don’t know that value.

 

If you know what you are looking for you can find gold for only a few dollars. The problem is, this is rare.

I find a couple good jewelry deals each year. I don’t count on them. I consider them a bonus when I find them.

 

If jewelry were the only thing I bought, I wouldn’t buy very much each year.

 

My best find was a few years ago. I bought a heavy bracelet for fifty cents. It was 14kt yellow gold with diamonds. I was able to sell the bracelet for over $500. I wish I could find a few of these a week. That’s not reality, but I’ll take them when they come.

 

Not all jewelry is created equal. You don’t want to buy every piece of jewelry unless you know what you are looking for. I am including what you should scan for when looking for real gold or silver.

 

What you need (Eventually)

 

Jeweler’s loupe – A Jeweler’s loupe is a magnifying glass made for jewelry. You can use a regular magnifying glass; however, a loupe is designed for jewelry. They are very affordable. Invest in one.

 

Scale – A jewelry scale can be purchased for about fifteen dollars. You need one. You should weigh every piece you buy. Knowing the weight of each piece helps you determine how to price your jewelry.

 

Diamond tester - A diamond tester is not necessary to buy immediately. I bought one after I purchased a few rings with diamonds. I wanted to 100% sure they were diamonds. When I sell a piece of jewelry, I am confident my buyer is getting exactly what they paid for.

 

Ring sizer – I waited until I started selling rings on-line before I bought a sizer. I would suggest you buy one if you plan on selling on-line. Buyers aren’t going to buy rings from you if you don’t list a size.

 

Jewelry cleaner – Jewelry cleaner can be purchased from most big box stores for a few dollars. If you plan to sell your jewelry, you need to buy some. It makes gold and silver shine brilliantly.

 

Gold

 

Where to look for “Marks”

 

Rings are marked on the inside of the band. The marking is small. If you hold a ring up and spin it around you will see what at first looks like scratches. Inspecting the markings a little closer will identify if it is real. Most marks are read with the naked eye when held up to light. For marks that are worn you can use a jeweler’s loupe to ensure it is gold.

 

Necklaces and bracelets are marked on one of the clasp. Look at both ends of a necklace/bracelet. If it is real you will find a mark on one of the ends.

 

Earrings are marked on posts or the backs of the earring. Earring marks can be harder to spot. It takes some practice looking at posts on the back of an earring. A jeweler’s loupe is definitely recommended to confirm authenticity.

 

What do the “Marks” say?

 

Real gold will be marked with one of several markings.

The most common markings will be:

 

14k, 14kt, 14kp, and 585: These marks indicate jewelry is 14 karat gold.

 

10k and 10kt: One of these marks indicate jewelry is 10 karat gold.

 

There are other markings. These are the most common markings I have come across.

 

If you find a marking on a piece of jewelry with one of these marks you should buy.

 

Gold Facts

 

Real gold necklaces and bracelets have closed/soldered loops at the clasps. Fake gold/silver usually is not completely closed.

 

It’s a subtle distinction. Once you notice a few, closed/not closed, you provide yourself with more opportunities. Seeing a necklace with a “not closed” loop tells me I don’t have to look for marks.

 

Spotting Fake Gold

 

Fake gold will be marked several ways:

 

GF – “Gold filled”

1/20 – “1/20th the weight of the piece is gold”

RGP – “Rolled Gold Plate

GP- “Gold Plated”

GEP – “Gold Electroplate”

 

Fake gold is not worth buying. It doesn’t carry a scrap gold price. Do not buy any jewelry with these markings to try to scrap or sell as real gold.

 

If you decide to buy, only do so if you buy cheap with the intention of selling it for a little higher than cheap.

 

Silver

 

Sterling Silver jewelry will be marked with “925” or “Sterling”.

Sterling jewelry can be profitable if purchased cheap. It only sells for a fraction of gold.

 

On average, you can expect to sell most silver jewelry pieces for $15 – $30. If picked up cheap it will net you a profit.

 

Make sure to examine every piece. Sometimes silver gets tarnished and looks like trash. All it needs is a bath in jewelry cleaner/ It will look brand new.

 

I found a heavy men’s necklace that looked like garbage. I could see it was marked at the sale. I took a chance and bought it. After cleaning, the “925” was clearly marked on the clasp.

 

Some Basics when Buying Jewelry

 

Not all yard sales have a jewelry section. When they do, you want to get in there and start looking.

 

If you come up and another buyer is already looking, don’t be afraid to also look. Don’t have to grab items out of their hands. Start looking at pieces they haven’t had a chance to look at yet. Be sure to go back and double-check what they already looked at. Some buyers miss gold or don’t know what their looking for.

Before I learned what to look for I know I missed real gold. Learning how to find gold and silver has created opportunities for me. I have found quite a few pieces overlooked by other buyers.

 

Don’t waste your money on jewelry that isn’t gold or silver. It’s not worth your time to buy and try to sell. There are too many other opportunities at the same yard sale to make an easier profit.

 

Sometimes jewelry won’t be in the sweet spot. This is where scanning each table comes into play. If it shines, take a look.

You won’t find jewelry every time you go out. Keep looking, eventually you will.

 

Once you find a nice piece of jewelry, you will be hooked.

When I first started finding gold, my wife didn’t understand my excitement. She didn’t like the pieces and thought they were ugly. Luckily, they weren’t for her.

 

You only have to get one person to like your jewelry, your buyer.

It doesn’t have to meet your standards (or your spouse’s) of apparel in order to be profitable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER TWELVE

Back to Scanning

Back to Scanning

 

You will miss a lot in your initial scan.

 

That is OK.

 

After you have thoroughly checked the jewelry section, it’s time to start scanning again.

 

Recall any mental notes you took on your first scan. If there was a table you noted, head there first.

 

Keep scanning on your way to that table.

If you see something during your scan, pause and take a 3-second look.

 

You should be able to make an assessment within 3 seconds. Decide if this item deserves a closer look or if you should keep moving.

 

Assess and decide on items you had mentally noted. You want to make this quick.

 

Again, buying items is a time game. The quicker you can get to the next sale the more opportunities can be expected.

 

Refocus and start scanning. Keep looking for items you already have an idea of their value. Check them out and make your 1 second assessment. Determine if the item will net you a decent profit.

 

Continue scanning and looking at tables.

 

When I scan tables, I am looking at spans of 2-3 feet. My eyes constantly move until I see something. I pause and make my 1 second assessment.

 

I continue walking and scanning while stacking items in my hands I want to buy.

 

After I scan the last area I immediately head to the seller and pay as quick as I can.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

Seriously, Scan Again

Seriously, Scan Again

 

After I pay, I take one more scan.

 

This gives me one last opportunity. I look for items I missed on my first two scans.

 

Once again, this shouldn’t take more than a few seconds.

 

Unbelievably, I find items on my final scan.

 

Sometimes, heading to the car, something jumps out of nowhere and catches my attention. Some of those items have netted a nice profit.

 

It may be hard to believe I missed items on my initial scans, but yard sales have hundreds of items. If you took your time to look at each item you would waste hours at only a few sales.

 

Hours Lost = Opportunities Lost

 

Doing one last scan creates one more opportunity to find an item to buy.

 

This is also an ideal time to inspect items you want to know more about. Pick the item up and take as many mental notes as you can about it.

 

Do this quick. Give yourself enough information to find it later through research.

 

If you need to know a value immediately research on your phone.

 

Make it quick.

 

Now, start your car and head to the next sale.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER FOURTEEN

Skipping

Skipping

 

There are plenty of great deals at yard sales. Some, however, are better left for someone else.

 

Unfortunately, I have been guilty of buying items when money would be better spent elsewhere.

 

If you only plan to sell on-line, you want to avoid loading up on dollar items. Dollar items are for sellers who set-up at flea markets.

 

I try to avoid the allure of dollar item deals. These items take up space and add to time invested.

 

You are better off waiting. You can buy a similar priced item and have a better-expected profit.

 

I have bought items in the past that seemed like a great deal. They ended up being just “OK” deals.

 

A few items I should have passed on:

 

WWF action figures, Hot Wheels, Records, and Glassware

 

There were other items; these are a few to give an example. I still look through these items, but I only buy the ones I learned are profitable.

 

When I bought the WWF figures, I thought I bought something very good. I paid a little under a dollar a piece. There were close to a hundred. I estimated an average profit of $5 each. That would have given me an expected profit over $500.

 

Sounds good, but that wasn’t reality. I was lucky 3 or 4 rare ones netted over $100. The rest were commons, broken, or marked/damaged. I did make a profit. I wasn’t anywhere close to what I expected.

 

Now, if I see the wrestling figures, I search for the few rare ones I learned were worth buying. Doing this provides me a better opportunity. I get a better rate of return on my investment.

 

I had similar experiences with Hot Wheels and records. Most aren’t worth buying unless you plan on selling at flea markets. You can expect to sell common Hot Wheels and records for .25 – $1.00 each.

 

Buying in bulk can be profitable. It can create opportunities. One thing to consider, the more you buy, the more time you have to invest. Every item in a bulk lot needs researched, cleaned, and sold. All of these factors cut into your future opportunities.

Buy Smart and skip dollar items.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

Time Waste Tips

Time Waste Tips

 

Time Waste Tip #1: Too much chit-chat

 

Some sellers want to engage in meaningless conversation. This is a time waster. The more time you spend talking to a seller the less time you have to find items.

 

If a seller wants to tell you the history of every item on their tables, even when you’re not asking about those items, you need to find a way to keep moving and scanning.

 

There are also sellers who try to oversell everything on their tables.

 

They give you information like:

 

“How old it is, how much it’s worth, how rare it is”

 

These are telltale signs the seller has researched their items. They assume you are there to buy their rare item to keep.

 

When sellers tell me “it sells for $… on …” I am skeptical.

 

Keep looking and moving to the next sale.

 

There are all types of people at yard sales. There are people that want to talk and sell you everything on their tables. You have a job to do. You need to find items to sell. Your job isn’t to stand here and listen to someone give you detailed descriptions of their items when you haven’t asked a single question.

 

There are also people that seem angry for no apparent reason. If you come across a seller who acts like you offended him/her, your best bet is to be nice. For these sellers I employ the “smile and nod” tactic. Along with smiling and nodding, I mutter a short phrase like “Huh”, while slowly starting to back away.

 

I also come across sellers who ask me what their items are worth. There are two varieties of these sellers.

 

The first seller responds, “How much will you give me?” in a boisterous tone when you ask for a price. These sellers aren’t quite sure of the value. They are worried someone is trying to rip them off. I usually respond with a shoulder shrug and put the question back on them.

 

Restating the question back to them helps me gauge if they want too much for their item. If they still don’t give an answer I put the item down and walk away.

 

Most times this generates a response from the seller and they give you a price. If they don’t, you can always ask one more time before you leave. You don’t have time to waste on a seller who isn’t prepared. They are costing you opportunities.

 

I come across another type of seller who tries to get you to value their items. They have their quarter and dollar items priced, but they don’t price anything they think is worth more than a dollar. They don’t take the time to research the value of their items. They are hoping someone comes along and tells them how much everything is worth.

 

I have approached this type of seller two ways. If I find myself in this situation, I can act as if I have no idea. This option allows me to keep moving. The other option I can do is help the seller out with an item or two. I only help them with items I am not interested in buying. I don’t want it to take longer than a few seconds. It needs to be something I already know the value.

 

Helping the seller with an item I don’t want puts me on their positive side.

 

 

Time Waste Tip #2: Looking every item up

 

Don’t walk around looking everything up on your phone. I know this can be tempting, but you are costing yourself opportunities.

If you come across an item you're not 100% sure of value, it is OK to occasionally research on the spot. When I research an item at a yard sale I want to make sure it is something worth investing time.

 

When I find something, that is a dollar or under, I gamble and buy. I am willing to risk a dollar in order to save time. I can research it later. Saving time increases opportunities.

 

Items above five dollars are too risky to gamble unless you know the value. I research if I am not 100% on an item’s value. I would rather take ten seconds to research an item instead of buying something I am unsure of the value.

 

When I research an item, it has to be something I have a feeling might be worth buying. There is no reason to research items I feel have no value.

 

While items I don’t research may have value, I know I am losing opportunities elsewhere every time I look something up.

 

My phone has saved me a lot of money. It’s OK to gamble once in a while on cheaper items. If you do it too much you will find yourself losing time invested/expected profits.

 

When you search, don’t stand there researching for multiple minutes. Look it up and keep moving.

 

Stay ahead of your competition. You want to constantly research new items. Whether you are at home or at a yard sale you have the opportunity to research and learn about new items.

 

The more you know the quicker and more profitable your buying business adventure will be.

Time Waste Tip #3: Stick with what you know

 

In the beginning of your buying career, stick to items you have a good understanding of their value.

 

When I started buying items other than video games, I would buy one or two new items. They were items I “thought” might have potential.

 

Sometimes they would, and sometimes they wouldn’t.

 

Each time I went out, I found new items to buy. I kept adding to my knowledge base. The key to success was finding items that were cheap.

 

If I spent $20 on an item, but wasn’t sure of value, I am risking a portion of my funds that could be spent on items I know about. Unless I am positive that $20 will get me an expected 3 times my investment, I pass.

 

If I pass on an item I wasn’t sure about, I remember enough details to research it later. That way, I didn’t have to risk anything. Next time I know if it would be a smart buy or not.

 

The more you learn the better opportunities you will create for yourself. Keep adding to your knowledge base.

 

When you’re considering buying an item ask yourself:

Is your money better invested in a guaranteed return or in something you don’t know anything about?

 

Only gamble buying items when the risk is low (cost).

 

After you go to a few weeks of sales, if you want to expand your base knowledge, start finding 1-2 items a week to gamble on buying.

 

Make sure the cost/risk is small. Buy it and take it home research. Next time it won’t be a gamble. You know if you should continue looking for that item.

 

If you buy one new item every week, you’ll add valuable information to your base knowledge. Within a few weeks, you have 8-10 new items you are equipped to make assessments. Your new base knowledge creates more opportunities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

Toy Tips

Toy Tips

 

Toy Tip #1: Size of item – “Big items vs. Small items”

 

Bottom line, big items cost more to ship.

 

Unless you are plan on selling locally, or expect a large profit from a big item, stick to smaller items. Smaller items are easier to ship, list, and sell.

 

As you advance in building your business, you start to learn which big items sell and their value. You also have a better idea of shipping costs. For now, stick to smaller items.

 

Buying smaller items provides you with more space in your house. It doesn’t take long to accumulate a plethora of items that start piling up around your house.

 

For example, I know I can store a thousand Lego mini-figures in the same amount of space as one small box. The box might net me a profit of $50 whereas the Lego figures could net me over $1000. Over the past few years, I have learned what items are worth space in my house.

 

It’s not that items I don’t buy wouldn’t net a profit, it’s just I would rather wait for a better opportunity.

 

Another factor depends on how you plan on selling. If you are only selling items on-line and plan on shipping, you end up paying higher cost in shipping. Shipping costs greatly affect your profit. It isn’t something to overlook.

 

I like to offer free shipping on items I sell on-line. I list my items for sale at a price I can pay for shipping and still make a profit. If I sell that item and it ships to a state that is on the east coast, I know my shipping cost will be lower than if a buyer from the west coast would buy my item. I made this mistake a few times. I ended up not making a profit on an item because it cost me $30-$40 to ship.

 

Now, if I’m selling something that is heavy or big, I list it a little lower and charge a shipping cost. This way, I make the same expected profit but the buyer knows how much they are paying for shipping.

 

Toy Tip #2: Condition

 

Whether someone is buying a toy as a collector or for a kid, no one wants to pay hard-earned money for something that looks like it has been around the block a few times.

 

I have been a victim of this offense a few times. Speed is one of my keys at yard sales. Occasionally, I see a box of toys I know has value. I buy it without wasting time checking the condition of anything. Most times, I am able to gain a profit. Although, there are occasions when items are in such bad condition I have thrown them away and took a loss.

 

Another negative, when buying items not in the greatest condition, is if you want the best profit, you must clean it. This requires extra time invested.

 

There have been times I bought toys that were dirty. They end up sitting in my garage for months because I prioritize items that don’t require extra hours of cleaning before I can sell them.

 

I hate buying items when the previous owner was a heavy smoker. While the smell might not bother them, it will most certainly bother your buyers.

 

I once sold an item that was sealed. I didn’t even think to check for smell as it was sealed in plastic wrap. A few days after I sold it I got an email from my buyer complaining. He said once he opened the item it smelled so horrendous of smoke it was unusable. I had no other choice then to refund his money. While I couldn’t have predicted the item inside would smell like smoke, I am still responsible for what I sell.

 

Another issue I have come across is toys not being cared for by the previous owner’s children. This happens most when I buy box lots. Parents go into their kids’ rooms and throw things in boxes that were crammed here and there. Usually, pieces are broken, mashed, marked, missing, dog/kid chewed, and everything in between. You will find paper clips, cheerios, shreds of paper, and other unidentified items.

 

When I come across a box that is a total mess, I try to get a few items that are salvageable. I want to at least get my money back. Everything else is trashed. You can save yourself some hassle by taking a few extra seconds to scan through the box.

 

As I gain knowledge and experience, I have got better at assessing condition. I only take a few extra seconds to scan. I don’t always catch everything, but I am able to weed out broken and beyond repair items.

 

You will get better the more you practice.

 

Toy Tip #3: Buy and sell in bulk

 

This tip has been good and bad for me. I believe this really has to do with how you plan on selling your items.

 

If you’re planning on selling your items at yard sales, flea markets, and on-line sites, then buying boxes of mixed items could provide opportunities. Buying boxes gives you lots of items to place on tables. It gets people to come and look what kind of deals you have.

 

It’s not uncommon to find boxes full of 50-100 items for <$5. If you put those items on a $1 table, you only have to sell five items until you start making a profit.

 

On the flip side, if you’re like me, you only want to sell on-line. You probably want to stay away from boxes full of $1 items.

 

The only way I buy a box full is if I see a few items I know I can easily sell on-line for more than $10 each. Anything under that isn’t worth my time.

 

One tactic that works for me when buying items in bulk is to sell them in bulk. If the items sell for a few dollars each, you would be better off selling them discounted in bulk lots.

 

When I sell items like this, I price them slightly lower than if someone would buy them individually. If I bought twenty of an item, I might list in lots of five. I still have four lots of items to sell. If the item I am selling normally sells for $5, I list my lot of five around $19.99-24.99.

 

By pricing my lot this way, I get close to the expected value. I only have to sell four lots of items as opposed to twenty items. It gives me a quicker turnaround on my money.

 

The other benefit of selling items in bulk is you have less time invested. Each item you list to sell on-line takes 10-30 minutes. If I know I can save five hours of listing time and only lose a few dollars in expected profit, I know my time is worth more than a dollar an hour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN

Video Game Tips

Video Game Tips

 

Video Game Tip #1: Bulk/Unless Sports

 

When video games was my main source of selling, I bought everything I could, especially in bulk.

 

This provided me with several opportunities.

 

When buying in bulk you can expect a discount. If games are a $1 each, and they have 100, you can negotiate. In an instance like this I would ask for them at $60. If the seller says yes you save 40%. That’s $40 you don’t have to make up when selling.

 

Another opportunity is the potential of finding rarer games. Most common games for older consoles sell on average for $3-$15. These common games make up the majority of what you buy in bulk. The rare gems you find that sell for $20-$60 will be a bonus. There have been instances I have found rare games that sold for over $100.

 

One thing I want to avoid when buying bulk is sports games. You should skip boxes of games that are mostly old football, basketball, baseball, hockey, golf, and other sports. Unfortunately, sports games are worthless. Every year, a new game is sold for each major sport.

 

I knew a buyer who had never bought video games. He saw I was buying and selling them for a profit. He was out buying and came across a few games. He bought them with the intention of flipping for a profit to me. Depending on what game or system he had, and the price he wanted, I would have bought them.

 

Problem for him was he bought sports games. I had no interest in them. He had trouble selling them. He ended taking a loss on them because he didn’t know enough about video games. He gambled without any research of his own.

 

There are timeless video games you can look for that should net a profit when purchased at a low price. A few games you can feel safe buying contain characters from Mario, Pokémon, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, and Contra. There are plenty of other titles and characters worth buying. Stick to buying the ones you know and continue educating yourself.

 

While I have backed off buying everything I come across, when it comes to video games, it is hard to pass up a good bargain. Keep your eye open and you will find them.

 

Video Game Tip #2: Condition

 

One negative you deal with when buying video games is condition.

 

If I’m buying 50 games from one seller, I don’t waste time sitting there looking at every single game. This has burnt me more than once. It is a risk I take if the price is right.

 

Sometimes you get lucky and games only have light scratching. They usually play without any issues.

 

Other times, games are so badly scratched they don’t work.

 

There are different methods of cleaning games. There are machines you can buy that clean games for you.

 

I had one of the machines that buffed games clean. Most of the time it worked great. For games that were heavily scratched it would make them look better, but they still wouldn’t work. Using a machine is very time consuming. Each game takes about 5 minutes to clean. That can be overwhelming if you’re staring at a pile of fifty games.

 

Now that I am a little fussier with what I buy, I take the time to look at each game I am buying. I don’t buy as many bulk lots as I used to. I look for games I know are quick and easy to sell. Because I am only buying 1-5 games at each sale, I can take the few extra seconds to scan each game and check for scratches. This has saved me a lot of money along the way.

 

Another concern is buying video game items from smokers. As I stated earlier, smoke seems to linger. The smell soaks into pamphlets and instruction manuals. It is hard to completely get rid of smoke smell. If you notice a smoke smell, try to air out the game in a garage. You could also use a cleaning product (Windex) to wipe down any cases or manuals that have a strong smoke odor.

 

You can save yourself a lot of time and money in the future if you learn to check the condition before buying. If you are buying in bulk, take twenty seconds and scan a few games. This won’t tell you what all of them look like, but it will give you an indication of what to expect. If you check three games, and all three are scratched badly, you can assume there will be more to come. I would keep looking for better opportunities elsewhere.

 

Video Game Tip #3: Changing Value

 

The value of video games is something that is always changing. A game you bought six months ago and sold for $10 may not sell for that same price now.

 

Sometimes price goes down for certain games. This is usually true of newer games that come out on current consoles. When games first come out, they are $60 at the store. After the game has been out for a few months, it starts to drop in price. If you’re buying newer games secondhand, you could be at risk if one of these drops happens.

 

There are also times when games go up in price. This is something you want to be aware of to gain maximum profit. It’s a lot of work driving around looking for items to sell. If you are selling your items for $10 less than the competition, you are selling yourself short.

 

I have noticed a trend in prices. Games tend to rise in value after two changes of consoles.

 

For example:

 

If the PlayStation 4 is the most current PlayStation system, then PlayStation 2 games start rising in value. When the PlayStation 3 was the newest console, then PlayStation 1 games had the inflated value.

 

I have observed this trend across most relevant platforms (Nintendo, Xbox, and PlayStation) over the past few years. While this rule isn’t 100% true of all games, it is worth researching if you’re interested in buying video games to sell.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Antique Tips

Antique Tips

 

Antique Tip #1: Glass

 

I avoid glass items unless I know exactly what I am buying. Glass is fragile and heavy. Unless you have prior knowledge, to buy antique glass with confidence, I would avoid and look for better opportunities.

 

There are a few names associated with glass that are worth looking for.

 

If you are interested in buying antique glass you should research: Fenton, carnival, loetz, and nouveau.

 

It’s impossible to tell you everything there is to know about antiques. I have only scratched the surface. There are books dedicated to each specific type of antique that are hundreds of pages long.

 

Another concern I have when buying glass has to do with selling. Depending how you plan on selling, you will need to consider several factors.

 

If you sell on-line, you will need to buy extra bubble wrap and supplies to ship it securely. You also need space in your house to store items. Each time you move them around in your house you are risking damaging them.

 

If you plan to sell them at flea markets, you put yourself at risk of damaging them each time you go and set up. You will have buyers continually picking them up and letting their kids go in and out of your stand looking at everything.

 

There is a profit to be had when buying glass, but unless you already know what you’re looking for stick to buying other items.

 

Antique Tip #2: Not what you think

 

When I first started expanding my base knowledge, I would buy items that I thought were old. I remembered seeing them from my childhood.

 

The unfortunate piece for me was I saw them regularly. That probably meant they were common among many households. This caused some of the items I was buying to have little value.

Just because something is old doesn’t automatically make valuable.

 

I bought a few old glass electrical insulators. When I bought them, I didn’t know what they were. I remembered my parents had one. They used it as a doorstop in our house. After some research, I figured out what they were. I was disappointed that they weren’t worth selling. They were only worth a few dollars each.

 

However, I like the look of them. They remind me of my childhood. I decided to keep the ones I bought and display them around my house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER NINETEEN

Discount Tips

Discount Tips

 

Discount Tip #1 – Get it Cheaper

 

In the morning, it can be harder to get people to lower prices.

 

If something is a dollar I usually don’t waste my time asking for a discount. When I am paying a dollar for an item, I am expecting to sell it for at least $12. Any lower than that and it is not worth my time. It wouldn’t matter if I got it for a quarter, there isn’t enough expected profit.

 

However, I do ask for a discount on higher priced items or when buying more than one item. I use a few different strategies when asking for a discount.

 

For my first strategy, I have a price in mind and make an offer.

 

For example, imagine someone is selling items for $3 each. I want two of them. I ask, “You have $3 a piece for these, would you take $5?”

 

Some people say “no”. Most sellers do the classic pause… (Pretend as if they are really thinking) and then shake their head yes.

 

The other strategy I use is putting pressure on the seller.

 

After deciding what I want to buy, I say “I’m getting all this (be sure to point to the many items you are relieving them of having to pack up), can you do any better?”

 

Once again, there will be a few sellers that say “no”. The majority will be ecstatic to sell their items for a discounted price.

I like the second strategy better than the first. I have found a high percentage of the time the seller gives me a better price than I would have offered.

 

I use this strategy a lot when buying video games. If I come across a seller who has a box of video games at $2 each, I ask, “If I buy them all what kind of deal could you give me?”

 

Most sellers are eager to get rid of everything at one shot. In the way I worded my question, the seller can decide if he wants to sell a whole box or carry it back their house.

 

If I had said, “There are thirty games here, would you take $30?” the seller might be a lot more reluctant to say yes. A seller wants to feel like they are getting a good price and saving you a little money. By wording my question as if I am doing the seller a favor by taking the games off their hands I put them at ease.

 

Discount Tip #2 Free

 

Unbelievably the “Free Box” of items at the end of the driveway can also contain some items that are worth grabbing on your way to the car. There have been a few times I haven’t bought a thing from a seller and found a few items in their free box.

 

I don’t spend a lot of time scouring a free box as the expected return is not hundreds of dollars. Worst-case scenario you have to throw it away. It is a no-risk option that could net a few dollars towards gas.

 

I have snagged a few losers and a few winners using this strategy. In my opinion, it is worth the gamble to create an opportunity that doesn’t cost a thing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER TWENTY

General Tips

General Tips

 

General Tip #1: Cut Your Losses

 

If it’s not there, it’s not going to show up. I have been at a few yard sales where I just keep looking and looking hoping something shows up.

 

It doesn’t happen. If you do your recommended scans and don’t see anything, get out of there. I know it is depressing to drive around and not find items to buy. Trust me, your time and money are better spent looking for another yard sale.

 

General Tip #2: Free Sale-ing

 

Free sale-ing can best be described as the act of driving around looking for yard sales. You look for signs and posters on the corners of streets that lead to sales that day.

 

I follow this strategy on two occasions.

 

First, whenever my planned route is over and I want to keep looking for items to buy I drive around looking for yard sales. I stay on main roads that have intersections and stop signs. This is where most sellers post signs if they want to draw in crowds.

 

You can’t always see what signs say when you turn. I usually drive for about a minute before I turn around if I can’t find it. I head back out to the stop sign and read the posted advertisement. If I know where it is I can turn around. Otherwise, I keep driving on the main road looking for easier opportunities.

 

Second, when I spot a sign on my planned route I check it out. If it isn’t too far off course I try to find it. If I don’t see it within twenty seconds I turnaround. I make a mental note. If I have time after I complete my planned route I can drive back and search for it a little more.

 

One reason for not wanting to go too far off course is the disappointment of following a sign and finding nothing. Then, going to back to where the sign was only to read that it was last weekend. Follow that up with pulling up to the sale you were supposed to and there is your arch nemesis already there with a handful of goodies.

 

All this because you wasted ten minutes driving around looking for a sale. Don’t waste opportunities looking for the unknown.

 

General Tip #3: Hustlers

 

I use the term “Hustlers” for my competition. They are out buying items to sell just like you and me.

 

You have to learn who they are so you can stay ahead of them.

 

If there is a hustler ahead of you in a development try and skip a few sales to get ahead of them.

 

Watch how they react. Do they skip a few to get back ahead or do they stay behind and keep going to the sales you were just at?

 

If they skip a few then that is someone that is a definite competition. Pay attention to what they buy. They probably have been doing this for a long time. You can learn from them just by watching. I have picked up a few tips by watching what these hustlers buy and the questions they ask sellers.

 

If your competition stays behind, then they aren’t concerned with you.

 

That could mean two things.

 

First, they have watched and seen the things that you buy. They aren’t threatened as they know you aren’t buying their items.

 

Second, they might not be passing because they haven’t noticed you. Some hustlers are only worried about themselves.

 

Either way, this is an opportunity for you. Take advantage and find the best items you can.

 

Eventually that hustler will remember you. Next time you may not have the advantage of being ahead of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE

Bonus Tips

Bonus Tips

 

I am including a list of items I bought and sold from yard sales. This list contains varying items. These are actual items I have sold over the past three months. This is not a complete list of everything. It is a quick list to show you a few items I have bought to sell successfully.

 

I am including “what I bought, how much I paid, and how much I sold each item for.”

 

If you learn nothing else, remember you have to be willing to adapt to what is available. When I only bought video games I often struck out if I couldn’t find any to buy. This left me feeling depressed.

 

Now, I can go out and find something to buy every time because I have grown my knowledge base.

 

Toys

 

When I buy toys, I consider two things: Price and Condition.

 

They both have to make sense. I have bought too many toys that weren’t in good condition and I have taken a loss. Even if the toy is cheap, if it’s not in great condition it’s not worth your money. Keep looking and eventually you will find something that is just as cheap but in great condition.

 

What I bought:

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I bought 40 Littlest Pet Shop figures for $10. I took a little bit of a gamble since I didn’t know the first thing about Littlest Pet Shop (LPS for those of you already in the know). Luckily, one of my hustler friends had given me a tip a few months earlier. I knew they were worth the risk. The first thing I did was research them. I sorted them into groups or individual figures depending on value. After all were sold, I had a profit of over $100.

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. Sometimes I buy box lots and sell items individually. Boxes of items take longer to sell, but can grow a decent profit. I bought a box lot of toys that had over fifty items for $5. I was able to sell one item, a 1988 “SEGA POCKET POWER” Motorcycle in Excellent Condition. I sold it for $13.99. I still have at least fifty other items to sell are all profit.

 

Video Games

 

Over the past two years, I have taken a break from buying everything I come across. There are many buyers looking for the same items. It has become harder to find good deals. Whenever I come across deals that are quick and easy to sell, I buy if priced right.

 

What I bought:

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I bought two Game Boy Advance SP systems for $20. I decided to sell them together knowing I could get the same price if I sold them separate. I was also able to save on shipping two items. I sold them together for $69.99.

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I bought two Wii games for $1 each. One was a Mario game and the other was a Sonic game. The Mario game would have sold for $20. The Sonic game was only worth $8. I decided to list them together. I sold them for $24.99.

 

Tools

 

Tools are my latest passion. I have discovered I can grow my own tool collection while making money. I have learned some tools have a greater value than I had realized.

 

There have been a few times over the past few months I have bought a tool with the intention of keeping. I always research everything. On a few that were worth more than I thought, I decided to sell. I wanted the money more than I wanted the tool. It’s a decision I have to make each time.

 

What I bought:

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I purchased a Vintage Sears Craftsman Portalign Precision Drill Guide for $1. I sold it for 34.99.

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I purchased a few box lots of tools from someone at a yard sale. The boxes were $3 each. One item I found was a PANDUIT GS4H TENSION installation tool. I was able to sell it for $99.99. As a bonus, there are other items to sell or keep for my own use.

 

Jewelry

 

Jewelry is a favorite item of all serious hustlers. Real 14kt jewelry is easy to scrap and provides a quick return for most hustlers.

 

I like to get maximum value from my items. When I first learned how to find jewelry, I scraped what I found. I would find gold and take it to the highest paying scrap person in town. This would net me a profit, but not necessarily the best profit.

 

I found by taking a little longer I could sell my gold jewelry for 2 to 3 times of the scrap price. The only way I scrap my gold now is if an item is broke.

 

What I bought:

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I bought a bag of mixed jewelry for $2. It had about 20 pieces of jewelry in it. One of the items was a 1958 High School Class Ring made of 10kt yellow gold. I was able to sell the class ring for $224.99. That was the only piece of gold in the bag. It did have a few pieces of silver jewelry along with vintage pieces that will sell for a few more dollars.

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I also sold pieces of jewelry that are not real gold or silver. When pieces are marked with a jeweler brand name, they have some value. They are not the same as real gold. I bought a vintage UNCAS MFG AMETHYST ring in a gold tone for $1. I could see the ring was marked, I just couldn’t tell what it said. It was worth the risk of $1. At worst, I figured I would sell the ring to someone else for a dollar. After some research, I listed and sold the ring by the brand for $41.99.

 

Misc.

 

I am listing miscellaneous items that don’t fit into categories I discussed in this guide. I want to highlight to you that with a little knowledge and risk you can create opportunities.

 

What I bought:

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I bought a coffee can full of hinges and knobs for $2. I sorted them into similar hinges and knobs. So far, I have sold two lots from the coffee can. The first lot contained fifteen Grass Brand Cabinet Hinges. I sold them a few days after I listed them for $149.99. The second lot I sold was 36 Vintage Almond Knobs for $24.99. I have sold close to $175 worth of items out of a $2 coffee.

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. I purchased 9 Goosebumps kids’ books. They were ten cents each. For under a $1 I had a listing of books. I sold the lot of 9 books for $16.99. This wasn’t a big profit item. However, I was able to exploit an opportunity that other buyers might have walked away from.

 

*
p<>{color:#000;}. In one of my $2 box lots of tools, I found a vintage LAFAYETTE Radio DYNA-COM 23 Handheld CB Transceiver. After researching, I listed and sold the transceiver for $66.49.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO

Closing

Questions

 

The time has come to revisit the two questions from the beginning of the book. Take a few minutes to reflect on them. Be honest with yourself. The only way you will continue to grow and gain knowledge is through self-reflection.

 

What did you take away from reading this book?

 

I hope you were able to at least learn a handful of tips away from this reading. As I stated in the opening paragraph of the introduction, it takes years of trial and error, mistakes, and successes to attain some of the tips and strategies I have shared.

My recommendation, if you haven’t already done so, would be to go back and skim each section. Take a few notes on some loose leaf to review before you head out to your next set of yard sales.

 

How many months/years would it have taken me to learn this information if I had just gone out and tried to learn on my own?

 

While some of this information can be attained by going out and buying items a few times, the majority of the information I have shared with you has been the product of my effort during endless hours buying from yard sales over the course of twenty years. It is up to you to use and process what has been passed onto you.

Closing

 

First, I want to thank you for spending your valued time reading Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide in its entirety.

 

If you have enjoyed what you have read check out my publisher’s website Shell-Hunter Publishing Company.

 

www.ShellHunterPub.com

 

Finally, if you enjoyed reading the tips and strategies in Yard Sales Buyer’s Guide please leave a review on Amazon’s review page. This will encourage me to keep sharing my hard-earned tips and strategies.

 

Leave a Review Here:

 

[* Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide*]


Yard Sale Buyer's Guide: Buy and Sell for Profit

Accept Your Profit Minded Rational, Kick Failure to the Curb, and Start Excelling Like a Natural Born Hustler! How would you describe your passion for profit? Thirsty? Hungry? Ravenous? The majority of people who go to yard sales throughout the year are missing a huge opportunity: PROFIT! Now is the time for you to be one of the buyers that continually buys items and sells them for profit. You might already be going to yard sales and finding items for great deals. But, are you exploiting opportunities to profit hundreds of dollars every time? No? No Worries, Guy Fisherman is here to invest in your future and set you on the right course. In this “Hustler’s Code-Breaking” book I am going to show you tips, strategies, and secrets to successful yard sale buying every time. In Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide you’ll learn: Why buyer’s get up early every weekend to head to yard sales. How you can successfully buy and sell for profit. Where the best places to yard sale are located. How early you should arrive at a yard sale. Why you should skip certain items, even if they will sell for a profit. How to stop wasting time when you are going to yard sales. Why your first stop should be obvious. How to scan efficiently. How to find the items other Hustlers are already scouring to buy week after week. How to buy items for discount. Why you should respond differently in each buying scenario. How to create the best profitable opportunities to achieve success every time you buy. …and many more tips and strategies other Hustlers don’t want you to know. Stop losing profits. Take advantage of the opportunity and download your copy of Yard Sale Buyer’s Guide today!

  • ISBN: 9781310847493
  • Author: Guy Fisherman
  • Published: 2016-04-04 15:35:18
  • Words: 13634
Yard Sale Buyer's Guide: Buy and Sell for Profit Yard Sale Buyer's Guide: Buy and Sell for Profit