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Woodworking For Beginners: A Collection Of Woodworking Tips And Techniques And T




A Collection Of Woodworking Tips And Techniques And The Basics Of Woodworking For Beginners

Table of Contents


Chapter 1: Basic Cut Types

y Types

Chapter 3: Basic Sanding Techniques

Chapter 4: Staining, Varnishing, and Lacquering

Chapter 5: Wood Project #1 – Anti-Heat Laptop Desk

Chapter 6: Wood Project #2 – 3-Drawer Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Chapter 7: Wood Project #3 – Closet Door Organizer

Chapter 8: Wood Project #4 – Pet Bed

Chapter 9: Wood Project #5 – Tree Stump Side Table

Chapter 10: Wood Project #6 – Classy Pencil Holder

Chapter 11: Wood Project #7 – Magazine Rack

Chapter 12: Wood Project #8 – Wooden Reading Nook


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Wood furniture pieces are expensive, what with all the things it has to go through before it reaches the furniture store. The natural remedy for this is to resort to plastic furniture, which is less expensive. The problem, however, is the strength, not to mention the looks or lack of ‘warmth’ plastic furniture brings.

This is perhaps what drives people to make their own wooden furniture and project pieces. Not only can projects come out inexpensive, they will also add a personal touch to the home space where you place them.

In this book, you will find 8 wooden projects-- each of them are easy to do and will only require a couple of hours to be accomplished.

The projects are all practical: they will not be sitting in your home without an apparent use. The projects are the following:

1. Mini-Laptop Desk

2. Medicine Cabinet

3. Closet Door Organizer

4. Pet Bed

5. Tree Stump Side table

6. Pencil Holder

7. Magazine Rack

8. Reading Nook

And depending on your creativity, you can design them to your heart’s content!

The book will also show you the basics of woodworking: from the cut types, joinery types, sanding, and applying the finishes.

Thanks again for downloading this book, I hope you enjoy it!

Copyright 2015 by Johan Pinter – All rights reserved.


This document is geared towards providing exact and reliable information in regards to the topic and issue covered. The publication is sold with the idea that the publisher is not required to render accounting, officially permitted, or otherwise, qualified services. If advice is necessary, legal or professional, a practiced individual in the profession should be ordered.


- From a Declaration of Principles which was accepted and approved equally by a Committee of the American Bar Association and a Committee of Publishers and Associations.


In no way is it legal to reproduce, duplicate, or transmit any part of this document in either electronic means or in printed format. Recording of this publication is strictly prohibited and any storage of this document is not allowed unless with written permission from the publisher. All rights reserved.


The information provided herein is stated to be truthful and consistent, in that any liability, in terms of inattention or otherwise, by any usage or abuse of any policies, processes, or directions contained within is the solitary and utter responsibility of the recipient reader. Under no circumstances will any legal responsibility or blame be held against the publisher for any reparation, damages, or monetary loss due to the information herein, either directly or indirectly.


Respective authors own all copyrights not held by the publisher.


The information herein is offered for informational purposes solely, and is universal as so. The presentation of the information is without contract or any type of guarantee assurance.


The trademarks that are used are without any consent, and the publication of the trademark is without permission or backing by the trademark owner. All trademarks and brands within this book are for clarifying purposes only and are the owned by the owners themselves, not affiliated with this document.


Cover image courtesy of Umberto Dattola – Flickr – https://www.flickr.com/photos/clab4design/4190358416/

Chapter 1 – Basic Cut Types

During woodworking projects, you would need to cut a round log in order to get a flat board right? The blade’s orientation with respect to the log and its growth rings decides the kind of cut that the board would end up with.

Through and Through: This cut mostly produces tangential boards and involves progressive cutting of the log from one side to another. Through and through cutting is the most effective and convenient way to cut a log. Apart from tangential boards, you also get rift-sawn and quarter-sawn boards in this type of milling. This is because as the boards are sliced off from the logs, the growth rings change their orientation. Through and through is also called plain sawn woods.

Quarter-sawn: Ironically, this is one of the less preferred methods of cutting a log, but leads to some of the most noteworthy boards. This is the more expensive method because you need to double handle the log and there is more wastage. However, it is the most decorative method and is less susceptible to distortion.

Rift Sawn: Rift sawn woods are the most “unwanted” woods because they lead to the most wastage. To have rift sawn, you have to cut the wood radially. The pieces in between will be left, often to be used as fire wood. This is the most expensive wood if you buy them, but if you cut them yourself, you will have the most stable wood that is great for wood furniture projects.

Chapter 2 – Joinery Types

Wood joinery is a very fundamental aspect of woodworking. Joinery is the process of “attaching” wood together to form your desired projects. Here are some of the basic wood joinery concepts, which will help you master the art of woodworking.

Butt Joint: This is the most basic wood joinery type. Here, a piece of wood butts into another one, mostly square to or at right angles to the other board. Mechanical fasteners are used to fasten the pieces. This kind of joint is frequently used on construction sites in wall framing.

Mitered Butt Joint: This is almost the same as the butt joint with the exception that the two boards are attached at an angle, and do not lie square to one another. The benefit lies in the fact that the mitered butt joint does not reveal any end grain, and so renders an aesthetically pleasing appearance. But the drawback is that this type of joint is not very strong.

Half Lap Joint: This is the point where around half of each joined board is removed, so that the two boards fit into each other. This can indeed lessen the strength of the two adjoining boards, but compared to butt joints, it is stronger. There are quite a lot of woodworking projects in which this kind of joint is preferred.

Tongue and Groove Joint: When two boards are joined along a long edge square to one another, you can just hold the joint with fasteners after you butt it together. The tongue and groove joint is quite strong and offers an increasing number of adjoining surface areas. This comes in very handy when you intend to glue the joint.

Mortise and Tenon Joint: This is a classic wood joinery procedure. Since the early periods of woodworking, these types of joints have been in existence. They are still considered among the most elegant and toughest methods for joining wood.

Dovetail Joint: The dovetail joint is the most valued amongst all the wood joinery procedures. A classic dovetail joint is strong, as well as beautiful, and impacts a kind of class to any piece you are working with. There are various processes of creating through dovetails, machining with a jig and hand cutting being two.

Dado Joint: This refers to a kind of square-grooved slot in a board in which another board can be fitted. As is true for tongue and groove joinery, dado is frequently used to connect plywood, as in the case of building cabinetry.

Rabbet Joint: This is another commonly used wood joint most applicable in cabinetry. This is in fact a dado cut done along the board’s edge. Rabbets often find use at assemblies such as at the back of cabinets, wherein they are utilized for joining the sides to the back of the box. This imparts substantial strength to the assembly.

Chapter 3 – Basic Sanding Techniques

Choosing the Correct Sandpaper

There are two main categories of sandpaper: industrial grade and commercial grade. The difference lies is the substance used for the grit as well as the glue and the backing material (paper). Higher quality materials are used in case of industrial grades.

Sandpapers may also be chosen according to closed-coat or open-coat. In open-coat there are bigger gaps between the particles whereas in closed-coat, the grit particles are more closely grouped. The general rule says that the open-coat is more appropriate for woodworking, as it does not clog much.

How Fine to Sand

It is not necessary to sand more than #180 grit of fineness. Finishes like lacquer, shellac, varnish or any other water-based finishes which build films, make their own surfaces after subsequent coats. In this case, the feel or appearance of the finish does not depend on how fine the wood has been sanded.

Oil finishes or those with a blend of oil and varnish do not possess any measurable build; hence you need to make the surface smooth by sanding with #400 or #600 grit sandpaper.

How Much to Sand

Many of us tend to sand more than what is needed because we fail to know when all the scratches and flaws are removed. A lot of this is learnt through practice. However, there are a couple of methods to help you out. First, after removal of the dust, expose the wood to low-angle reflected light (such as coming from a light fixture on a stand or a window) and have a look at it. Secondly, wet the surface of the wood (with denatured alcohol) and inspect it from different positions in reflected light.

Choosing the Right Sander

Before you select the sander, decide exactly for what you would be using the sander. Is it heavy duty or light duty work? Would you be using the sander indoors or outdoors? The answers to these questions along with some research on the options available will help you go for the right sander.

Sanding By Hand

If you are sanding by hand the sanding block’s flat side must be in complete contact with the wood surface. While you are sanding with the grain, you can come near to the edges but make sure not to round over the corners. When you feel that the surface is completely sanded, take some fresh sandpaper and sand with your hand applying a small amount of pressure with your fingertips. Make the surface dust free using any clean cloth and mineral spirits.

Sanding By Power Tools

There are three portable power tools with which you can literally sand any kind of edge or surface during your woodworking project.

Belt Sander: This high speed heavy weight sander can smooth any large, flat surface, even those which are rough.

Orbital Sander: You can easily control this lightweight sander using your hand. You can use it for light sanding but not for heavy stock removal.

Random-Orbit Sander: Although this sander is not as fast as the belt sander or as controllable as the orbital one, it is the most versatile amongst portable sanders.

Removing Sanding Dust

Vacuuming is the best way to remove sanding dust. Using a brush might throw the dust up in the air making your shop dirtier. Sticky rags are good for a small amount of dust but are not apt for bulk dust removal. If you have an exhaust system in your shop, you may go for compressed air.

Chapter 4 – Staining, Varnishing, and Lacquering

Staining Wood

Choosing a Wood Stain

There are various kinds of stains such as water-based stains, wiping stains, NGR (Non Grain Raising) stains, varnish and sealer stains. Choose according to the finish you plan to use. Also, consider the job you will be doing. The majority of furniture stains are pigments mixed in turpentine or oil.

Application Techniques

The right staining techniques can avoid messes and save time. To get the color you want, experiment by applying small batches over scrap wood, till you get the desired color. Follow the method of application as per the type of stain- NGR, water-base, and so on.


Do mix enough stain to cover the entire furniture, once you arrive at the right stain color

Do apply a number of coats till the color is as deep as you desire


Do not mix types or brands of stain

Do not change the brand of the stain in the middle of the woodworking project


Choosing a Wood Varnish

While choosing the varnish, decide whether you are looking for the removable or the permanent ones. Again, keep in mind that flexible varnishes can be applied on any surface, while those which are rigid can be applied only on rigid surfaces such as hardboards, wood and so on.

Application Techniques

The first thing is to clean the timber using sandpaper. A couple of methods can be used for applying varnish. You may either use a normal bristle brush of good quality or a foam brush, which usually gives a fine finish. Shake the tin for proper mixing and apply 2 or 3 coats for durable finish.


Do check whether timber is free from dust before applying varnish.

Do keep the strokes smooth and long.


Do not create any air bubble in the varnish finish.

Do not hurry if you want a fine, durable finish.


Choosing a Wood Lacquer

Lacquer finishes come in a number of types. Choosing the right one depends on the piece you would be lacquering and your own experience. Urushiol-based lacquers are unique in the sense that they are water-based and slow-drying. It offers a durable finish and is extremely resistant to acid, alkali and water. Nitrocellulose lacquers offer many bright colors, but are quite toxic. The acrylic lacquer, popularly used in wooden products, has a quick drying time.

Application Techniques

During a woodworking project, lacquer is applied to the board’s surface and then hardened through UV cure. On application lacquer seals the timber and is more durable. You may add lacquer thinner to control the viscosity and retarders to slow down the rate of drying.


Do apply spray over the lacquered surface to prevent blushing

Do apply lacquer in low humidity condition.


Do not bring the surface where you will apply lacquer, in contact with moisture.

Do not bring the wood surface in contact with silicone.

Chapter 5 – Wood Project #1 – Anti-Heat Laptop Desk

Your laptop often heats up because of the accumulated dust. This situation worsens as you always place your laptop on soft materials prone to dust- like carpet. The solution? None other than having a small laptop desk that you can use both at home and in the office. The flat surface and the smooth wood will prevent dust from entering your laptop, thus, you will experience less heating.

Materials and Tools:





Wood glue

Sanding paper/block

Wood stain or wood paint

Miter saw

Nail gun

Cut List:

For the desk legs:

Take the 2×2 wood and cut them into 4 pieces, each 9 inches in length

For the front and back apron:

Take the 1x2 and cut them into 2 pieces, each 25 inches long-- the ends should also be cut at 45 degree angles

For the side aprons:

Take the 1x2 pieces and cut two pieces, each 10 and ¼ inches long-- the ends should also be cut at 45 degree angles

TAKE NOTE: The aprons are the woods found under the table tops or desktops.

For the desktop:

Take the 1×12 and cut it to one piece, length should be 25 ½ inches long.


First step is to place the desktop on a flat surface and begin attaching the front, back and side aprons. Make them stick to the 1×12 table using wood glue. The aprons are attached using mitered butt joinery. Leave it for half an hour to let the glue set in.

If you plan to stain the desk, make sure that there is no excess glue. Glue tends to be resistant to wood stain. Complete the apron attachment by flipping the desk over and nailing them using the nail gun or hammer.

Take the 4 legs and start attaching them to each corner of the apron. Attach them first using the wood glue. Let the glue set in for half and hour before completing the attachment using a nail gun or hammer. To make the desk sturdier, nail the legs against the apron twice on each side.

The mini desk is almost done. Just let the glue set in further by leaving the desk be for 24 hours.

After a whole day start sanding the project. If you made this desk for kids, don’t forget to sand all the sharp edges away. Remove sawdust accordingly before staining or painting the wood. In case you decide to stain the wood, it’s better to choose a wood conditioner.

Chapter 6 – Wood Project #2 – 3-Drawer Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

We know how important a first aid kit is. In fact, if you’ll think about it, our house is always equipped with the most common first aid materials such as gauze, Band-Aids, Povidone Ion, alcohol, cotton balls, Tylenol, and topical ointments. The problem is this: we often misplace them because we don’t have a place to keep them.

To solve the problem, why not make a 3-drawer apothecary cabinet?

Materials and Tools:

Wood: One piece of the following

1×6×8 feet

1×6×4 feet

1×4×2 (16 ½ inches)

1×3×4 feet

2×4 feet sheets of plywood (1/4 inches)

2×4 feet sheets of plywood (1/2 inches)

12×12 mirror

1 inch hinges

Cabinet door knob or handle

3 drawer pulls

Finish nails

Pocket hole screws

Wood glue

Wood finish of choice


Kreg jig

Miter saw

Circular saw



Measuring Tape

The Cut List:

For the sides:

Take the 1×6 and cut two pieces of wood each 24 inches in length

For the top, bottom, and the shelf:

Have three pieces of 1×6 each measuring 16 ½ inches

For the dividers:

Have 2 pieces of 1×6 at 5 inches in length.

For the inside shelf:

1 piece of 1×4 measuring 16 ½ inches

For the back and fronts of the drawer:

6 pieces of ½ inch plywood at 4 ¾ x 4 ½ inches

For the sides of the drawer:

6 pieces of ½ inch plywood at 4 ½ x 4 ½ inches

For the bottom of the drawer:

3 pieces of ¼ inch plywood at 5 ½ x 4 ¾ inches

For the back:

1 piece ¼ inch plywood at 18×24 inches

For the door rail:

2 pieces 1×3 at 11 ¼ inches

For the door stiles and support cleat

3 pieces 1×3 at 16 ½ inches


The first step is to build a box like structure. Take the wood for the top, bottom and sides. You can attach the wood using the simple butt joinery, just make sure that the top and bottom pieces are inside the side boards, not outside. Attach using glue first, then start nailing.

From the bottom, measure 5 inches and attach the wood for the shelf using screws.

Shift the drawer so that the back is facing you. Attach the support cleat using the pocket hole screws.

Now you can begin attaching the drawer dividers at the bottom. From the sides, measure 5 inches. Mark and lay the drawer dividers on those marks. Attach them using glue first, let it set for half an hour, and then finish by nailing them.

Next is the inside shelf of the drawer. From the top, measure 4 ½ inches-- attach the inner shelf wood there using the pocket hole screws. The truth is, it is completely up to you where you attach it, but the 4 ½ inches are great for the smaller items of your medicine cabinet content.

It’s time to build the three drawers at the bottom. Gather the wood for your drawer sides (6), drawer fronts (3) and drawer backs (3). Remember that the 4 ½ inch pieces are inside (sandwiched) between the 4 ¾ inch boards. You can attach them first using glue and then using finish nails. By this time you will have three small hollow boxes. Complete the drawers by attaching the bottom boards using glue and nail as well.

Build the door frame. The 11 ¼ inch wood should be sandwiched by the 16 ½ inch pieces. Attach them using butt joinery with glue and then nails. By this time, your frame is complete. What’s left to do is to attach the mirror. To do this, just use the mirror clips. If you don’t have a mirror and would gladly settle for wood, then just glue the wood in front. Leave to dry for now.

Take the board for the back of the cabinet and attach it using glue and nails.

Gather the door with the attached mirror or wood, and start attaching it to the cabinet using the door hinges. Assemble the drawers as well.

Hang to the wall through the studs and the support cleat. If there are no studs, use different wall anchors.

Sand the project accordingly.

Now your cabinet is ready to serve every small emergency you’ll have at home!

Chapter 7 – Wood Project #3 – Closet Door Organizer

We’ve all heard about the importance of closet organization, but we can’t seem to take it to fruition. The problem is, our closets are not built for certain things. Most of them are built with clothes, clothes, and more clothes in mind. If you want to get organized, you need to personalize your closet organizer.

Take note, this organizer is built to store light objects only. But the beauty is that you can easily hang it at the back of the closet door.

Try this project!

Tools and Materials:


2 pieces of the following:

½ in x 1 ½ x 4 ft. Poplar #1327

½ in x 3 ½ x 4 ft. Poplar #1432

¼ in x 3 ½ x 4 ft. Poplar #1222

5/8 inches x 4 ft. Poplar dowels #19383

1 inch wire nails

Metal screws

White aerosol wood paint

Miter box

Hand saw

Wood glue


Carpenter square

5/8 inches Forstner bit

Cordless drill with 1/16 inches drill bit


The first things to cut are the following:

Shelf sides, cleat/shelves, shelf stops and the dowels. You will need 4 pieces of wood for the shelves and cleats (22 inches in length), 2 pieces for the sides (48 inches in length), 3 pieces for the shelf stops (22 ½ inches in length). You need to cut several pieces using the same measurement. To make it easier for you, tape them together before cutting. That way, the measurements will truly match.

Don’t forget to prepare the dowels, also 22 inches in length.

Start drilling the holes for the dowels. It is completely up to you where you put the dowels. The most common place is slightly at the top of the organizer. When drilling, place a carton under the wood so you don’t risk damaging the work area. Once the drilling is done, attach the dowels.

You can now mark where the shelves will be placed. Mark using a pencil and place the mark at the inside faces of the organizer sides. Place the shelves between the sides on the spots you have marked. Use glue when attaching them. To help the glue set in more, wrap the side attachments with painter’s tape.

Do the same technique when attaching the cleat at the upper part of the organizer. The cleat is where you will hang the organizer against the closet door.

Once the glue is dry (it usually takes about half an hour), take the shelf stops and attach them at the front side of each shelf. Again, for this procedure, use the glue and the painter’s tape.

Once the glue is dry, remove the tape. Drill the hole at the side into the shelves and cleat. Hammer the wire nails lightly just to make the joints sturdier.

The project is almost done! All you need to do now is sand the whole organizer using grit #220 sandpaper. Remove excess sawdust by wiping. Apply two coats of paint spray. Then lightly sand again. In between coats, lightly sand the whole project.

It’s now ready. Attach the organizer to the door of the closet. Just make sure that you attach it at least 1 inch from the top of the closet door.

Chapter 8 – Wood Project #4 – Pet Bed

Just when we want to give our pets everything, the price tags can stop us. Pet accessories are already expensive, but with this project, you will be able to give your pet a wonderful gift that only requires a couple of hours. And what’s more, it’s a project that’ll only cost you about $12!

Tools and Materials:


3 pieces of 1×4×8 furring strips

2 pieces of 1×2×8 furring strips

1 piece of 2×4×10 pine board

Kreg jig

Pocket hole screws

Nail gun


Varnish or paint


First step is cutting the wood. From the 2×4 pine board, have 5 pieces, each measuring 22 inches in length. After that, attach them side by side using a kreg jig and pocket hole screws. Once this is done, you will have a board for the base of the bed.

Now take the 1×4 furring strips and have three cuts, each measuring 22 inches in length as well. Again, you must attach them to create a board. Use the kreg jig and pocket hole screws for attachment. This is going to be the back of the pet bed.

Since you now have the back and the base, it’s time to attach them to each other. They are both 22 inches long, so there will be no adjustment. To make them stick together, use glue first. After using the glue, strengthen the attachment using the nail gun or hammer. As of this point, you will have a small chair-like piece of furniture.

The next step is to create the sides of the bed. Take 3 of the ¼ furring strips and cut them so that their length is going to be 18 ¼ inches each. Then have two 1×2 furring strips and cut them so that they are 10 ¼ inches long. This set will make ONE side of the bed.

So prepare another set of these to complete both sides. Once the wood is prepared, you can now start attaching them. Attach the three ¼ furring strips first using the kreg jig and pocket homes. Do the same with the other three pieces. After this you will have two boards. Take the 2 pieces of 1×2 and glue them to the shorter sides (10 ¼ inches) of one of the boards. After gluing, use the nail gun or hammer. Do the same with the other board.

Now it’s time to reinforce the top and bottom of those boards. Take 4 pieces of 1×2 each 15 ¼ inches long. Get the first board and attach 2 pieces at the top and bottom using glue and the nail gun. Do the same with the other board.

By this time what you have are the following: base and back and two bed sides.

Attach the sides to the bed. Use glue first before the nail gun. Remember that the framed face of the bed sides should be facing outward. Let the glue settle for about half an hour.

The next parts to attend to are the feet of the bed. For these, take 1×4 furring strips and have 4 pieces, each measuring 4 inches in length. Flip the bed over and attach each foot at the corners. Use glue and nail gun or hammer as well.

To complete the project, there has to be a piece of wood at the front of the bed. Use one 1×4 wood and cut it so that it’ll be 24 inches long. Glue before nailing.

And that’s it! All that’s needed now is to sand the whole project and then paint or varnish. You can even write your pet’s name on the board at the front of the bed. Place a bedsheet in the bed and your pet will be mighty comfortable!

Chapter 9 – Wood Project #5 – Tree Stump Side Table

Are you fond of nature? Do you want to fill your home with “natural” items? If the answer to both questions is yes, then you will probably love this project. It looks rustic that it instantly adds class to your room. The best part is, it won’t require you to spend much money for a perfectly sturdy and stylish piece of furniture!

Tools and Materials:


A tree stump (please choose a hard tree stump, because soft woods often rot immediately and as much as possible, it should be straight from top to bottom. If it is not straight, then you have to cut it.)

Wood chisel/pry bar

Sandpapers (with various grits)




Table legs (optional)

Wood stain

Wood sealant


The first step is to remove the bark of the tree stump. You can peel them away using a prybar. But if they are stubborn, then you may want to use the wood chisel. Be careful though, when using the latter because it can damage the wood itself.

Next is to sand the stump. Use different grits, starting from the coarsest to the finest. This is the most frustrating part of the project. Why? While doing this, you will find some “hairs” or “fibers” sticking out of the tree stump.

You will want to sand them all away, but the truth is, they will never be completely gone. So at one point, you will have to leave them be. The goal here is to have as few of them as possible because they make wood staining and sealing difficult.

After sanding, take a cloth and damp it with water. Gently, wipe the tree stump with the cloth. While doing this, try to figure out which part will be your table top, and which part will be your bottom end. The flatter the side, the better it is meant as the top. The bottom end is where you will attach the legs.

Attach the legs using package instructions. The truth is, this is optional. Add the legs if you want the stump to be taller, or if the bottom side is unstable. The legs should be as far apart as possible so that they will be more stable. Test it and fix if the tree stump wobbles.

Now your side table is finished! You just have to stain it and then coat it with wood sealant. Look at your amazing project and decide where you will place it at home.

Chapter 10 – Wood Project #6 – Classy Pencil Holder

We often take pencil holders for granted because, really, we’re so used to having them (writing materials) lost, and then suddenly appearing when we don’t need them. You know what? It’s time to end this dilemma once and for all!

All you need are a few materials, a couple of hours, and a little touch of creativity. The resulting piece will be a classy pencil holder that is guaranteed to keep even your most stubborn pens and pencils!

Tools and Materials:


4×6×6 inches wood block (you can easily buy 4×6 inches boards from your dependable hardware store, ask them to cut it for you at a length of 6 inches)

Drill (make sure that it has both the regular drill bit and the ¼ inches drill bit)

Power sander (or even sanding paper)

Brass escutcheon pins (2-3 boxes)

  1. x 5/8 inches wire brads (1 box)





Wood sealant


Start by slightly sanding the whole block. Don’t do a full sanding though, reserve that for later. After sanding, clamp the wood so that it’ll be immobile while you are marking and drilling. Using a ruler, mark an inch from all sides of the wood. Remember to mark the side where you will insert your pens and pencils.

After that, decide where to put the cubby holes. The recommended way is to have 4 holes on top, 3 holes in the middle, and then 4 holes again at the last row. That way, you will see your pens without difficulty. But really, it’s up to you where you want to drill. Once cubby holes are marked, start creating guide holes using the drill with a small bit.

Now take the ¼ inch drilling bit and start the actual drilling. The depth of each hole should be 3 inches.

After all the cubby holes have been drilled, you can now do the full sanding. Start with the coarse sand paper, followed by medium, and then fine. If you want your pencil holder to be super smooth, sand it with super fine grit.

Turn the wood upside down to get rid of the sawdust that entered the holes.

After the whole block has been sanded, start sanding the edges of the holes. To make it easier for you, take a dowel or even a pencil and wrap it with sandpaper. To make the sandpaper stick to the dowel or pencil, use glue or even an ordinary tape.

Again, turn the project upside down to make sure sawdust is removed.

Take a slightly damp cloth and wipe the whole project.

Let it dry before staining. It’s up to you how many coats of staining you’ll do. By this point, the project is already complete. However, if you want to add more design, follow these steps after wiping the project.

Take the escutcheon pins and have free reign on how you will design the pencil holder. You can make caricatures out of them, or perhaps form a straight line at the middle, top, or bottom. It’s really up to you. After the pins have been attached according to your design, you can now stain the wood.

If you simply plan to use the project as a pencil holder, you can forego the wood sealant. But since the holes are big enough to hold toothbrushes, you can also use it as toothbrush holder to be placed in the bathroom. If you decide on the latter, then you must apply the wood sealant after staining. This will make the project resistant to water. By the way, don’t forget to apply the stain and sealant inside the holes!

Chapter 11 – Wood Project #7 – Magazine Rack

Magazines can take up a huge space in your home if you leave them anywhere. We leave them in the living room table, bedside table, bathroom sink (after we do our business!) and even on top of the television. And the result? The start of cluttering in our own home. So, how do we keep them intact? Simple answer: create a very easy to do, wooded magazine rack.

Materials and Tools:

1 piece of 2×3×96 inches stud

4 pieces of 3” screws


8 foot electrical cord (similar to a lamp cord),


2 pieces of galvanized plumber’s tape (3 holes each)

2 shades of paint




Cut List:

Take the stud and cut it to:

2 pcs 16”long

2 pcs 29”long

Note: You can adjust the height of your magazine rack depending on how many magazines you want, or how crowded you don’t want your rack to be.


First, arrange the pieces you’ve cut from your stud to form a frame. Remember, the 16” pieces represent the width of your magazine rack. Pre-drill and screw each side to secure them together.

Once the frame is secured on all sides, mark the holes on the side where you are going to insert the cord into. The number of holes will determine how many rungs you will have on your magazine rack. Start by marking the top center and bottom center and using a ruler, draw a line to connect the two. This will make sure that your holes will be aligned together on the center.

To start marking your first rung, use your ruler again to measure 4” from the top of your rack. Go 2” down from the first rung to get your second and continue with the same measurement until you reach the 8th rung. Do this on the other side too and make sure your measurements are exactly the same.

When you’re done marking, start drilling the holes. Sand and sweep afterward to take the sawdust away.

Place newspapers on the floor and put your rack frame on top. It’s time for the fun part! Paint the rack frame using two shades of paint: one for the inside and one for the outside. Remember to poke the holes with a toothpick to clear off paint. Let it dry.

When the rack is completely dry, start inserting the cord through the holes. Secure one end of the cord on top outside your rack with a galvanized plumber’s tape. Tie the cord’s end on the center hole of the tape and then screw the holes on the sides to the stud.

Once you’ve secured the end, thread your cords through the holes. Now, it is important to pull the cord as tight as you can to avoid sags or dips anywhere. When you’re done threading the cord, make sure that it is as tight as it possibly can be before securing its last end with galvanized plumber’s tape.

Cut the remaining cord.

And there you have it! The only thing left to do is stack your magazines on the rack! Make sure that they are still easily recognizable.

Chapter 12 – Wood Project #8 – Wooden Reading Nook

Closets are one of the most left-out parts of the house and what happens to it? It becomes the packing place for our most unwanted clutter. Well, we suggest you make a reading nook out of it!

Materials and Tools:

For the bench:



Purebond Plywood


For the cushion:

Foam batting

Upholstery fabric


Upholstery needle

Cut List:

Cut the studs according to the sides of your closet. The studs will be used as the frame of the base.

Pine should be cut to 1×4xn pieces, representing how long the piece should be depending on the measurements of your closet per side. Once the pine has been cut to 1×4xn pieces, cut the pieces in random length. Note: The random cut pieces should be kept together and not mix with others as you have to connect them easily together on the wall. Leave two uncut pieces of 1×4 pine for the shelves.

Purebond Plywood will be cut according to closet area or the same as the size of the frame.


Make a base first before constructing the bench seat. Use the studs to make the frame for the base and secure the studs to each other and to the wall with lag bolts. Cover the base frame with Pureblond Plywood (no formaldehyde) and secure it again. Make a frame for the sides (to support the bench seat; your frame for the sides will determine how high your bench seat would be so measure it carefully). Secure every stud together and to the wall with lag bolts before putting another Pureblond Plywood on top of it for the bench seat.

For texture on the walls, fill up 3/4 of the wall space (from the bench seat to the top) with the pine pieces. Use “Power Grab” to attach them to the wall before securing with finishing nails.

Build the two shelves for the books along the side of the closet. Paint the remaining 1/4 wall space with the color of your choice. And to make the project classier, attach cut plywood (painted white) on top of the pine pieces to give a little division from the painted wall.

For the cushion, measure the area of the closet or you can use the measurements for the bench seat to get the cushion size. Use upholstery fabric and needle to sew the cushion cover around the foam batting.

Place the cushion on the bench seat and you can add more things to go with it for a perfect reading nook!


Thank you again for downloading this book!

It is true that creating your own projects seem like a very inconvenient way of saving, but look at it this way: When you spend time in creating your projects, you take a breath of fresh air.

No one will dictate you on when you will have to finish them: you can complete them in a couple of hours, a couple of days or even a couple of weeks, and it’s perfectly fine! When times get hard and you need a break you can shift your attention to the project.

You can design them on your own and unleash the creativity within you.

Once a project is accomplished, you will feel really good knowing that you made it. Each time you look at it, you will realize that you are capable of creating things!

Thank you and good luck!

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Woodworking For Beginners: A Collection Of Woodworking Tips And Techniques And T

A Collection Of Woodworking Tips And Techniques And The Basics Of Woodworking For Beginners! ===>>> Get Your FREE GIFTS with this Book! Scroll Up and Download Now!

  • Author: T L
  • Published: 2016-07-01 04:20:11
  • Words: 7056
Woodworking For Beginners: A Collection Of Woodworking Tips And Techniques And T Woodworking For Beginners: A Collection Of Woodworking Tips And Techniques And T